Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan.
William Finnegan traces a life shaped by surfing, from childhood in California and Hawaii to journeys across the world. The pursuit of waves becomes an education in risk, friendship, place and the demands of an obsession.
Read it for how closely the author attends to a practice that outsiders may see only from a distance. It asks what a consuming pursuit makes possible, and what it asks a person to give up.
Cover shown: Penguin Press hardcover, ISBN 9781594203473, available through the listed Barnes & Noble and Books-A-Million options. Apple Books and Kobo offer the ebook, ISBN 9780698163744.
